In Issue #18: Winter 2025

Last Updated December 23, 2024
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FROM THE PUBLISHER
 

March 10 will mark Edible Vermont’s fifth anniversary. We launched during Covid. As might be expected, it’s been an incredible journey of growth and discovery. I am extremely humbled when you—readers—reflect on an article or recipe, or remark on a cover that you favored and when advertisers comment that the magazines fly out of their establishments and that their visibility in it has made a difference. Thank you all for your feedback, loyalty, and support.

…and the icing on the cake, or should I say the berry on the cone, was being recognized by peers and industry influencers when Edible Communities awarded the publication the Best Magazine Cover of 2023, for our summer issue featuring the Ice Cream Cone photographed by the talented Clare Barboza.

This issue has been at least four years in the making. Maria Buteux Reade, at our editorial helm, has once again provided thoughtful, insightful content about the state of grain in Vermont. As in our past issues, you will read once again about the tightly knit and supportive Vermont community—the innovators, the farmers, the mills, the bakers, the consumers. The Grain Chain.

Thank you to all who participated in this issue, with special recognition to King Arthur Baking Company, The Bread Bakers Guild of America, Todd Hardie, and Ruth Reichl who gave so generously of her time to Maria.

Like bread baking, publishing this magazine is a process that follows a formula but also adds creativity and passion each time, resulting in a unique, tactile, and satisfying product.

Enjoy cooking and baking and breaking bread with your families and loved ones this winter season.

Stay safe and healthy!

Marcia Lissak


JK Adams’ french rolling pin with baking tools. PHOTO COURTESY JK ADAMS


PHOTO: MARIA BUTEUX READE

FROM THE MANAGING EDITOR
 

I’ve been dreaming about producing this grain issue for six years, ever since I attended the 2018 Northeast Grainshed Alliance gathering in Worcester, Massachusetts. Todd Hardie, president of Northern Grain Growers Collaborative, had encouraged me to show up, so I did. Later that day, Todd poured me a small sip of rye distilled from grain he had grown and harvested on his Greensboro farm. The taste of heavenly things to come!

As I listened to and met passionate farmers, millers, bakers, brewers, and distillers from throughout the Northeast, I sensed a powerful renaissance afoot with important stories to share.

I never lost sight of my dream. During the past six years, this local grain movement has only taken deeper root. Interest in creating food and drink with local wheat, corn, rye, and other small grains fermented and took shape, like those crusty loaves and golden pastries emerging from wood-fired hearths around Vermont.

I am indebted to the people you will meet in this issue, who took time to share their stories with our writers. Each recognized the value of growing and processing grain here in Vermont and took calculated risks to revive this tradition. Special gratitude to Jack Lazor, Heather Darby, Todd Hardie, Regina and Brent Beidler, and so many others who welcomed me into the world of grains through NOFA-VT workshops and farm walks over the last 15 years. Bagging grain with Jack Lazor at Butterworks Farm in 2014 remains a highlight. Little did those folks know that those experiences and conversations would plant the seed of my passion.

Deep gratitude also to Marcia Lissak, owner and publisher of this magazine, who patiently endured my grain diatribes over the last four years and gave me free rein to pursue these stories gathered here. I sincerely appreciate her trust and faith. To honor my deep dive in to all things grain, on a chilly October morning, I rolled up my sleeves and baked a loaf of rye bread.

My ingredients: freshly milled rye from Todd Hardie’s Thornhill Farm in Greensboro, Redeemer whole wheat from Nitty Gritty Grain in Charlotte, cold-pressed sunflower oil from Morningstar Farm in Glover, and rich honey from my friends at Boorn Brook Farm in Manchester. The golden crusted, round loaf that emerged from my oven was deeply satisfying, the slight peppery tang of rye balanced with caraway seeds and a hint of sweetness. I cut a thick, still-warm slice and spread it with softened Ploughgate butter. My soul and belly were soon filled with the earthy essence of Vermont.

Cheers to all who steward our land and remain committed to providing healthy food that nourishes us all!

Maria Buteux Reade

The Hungry Ghost Bread Book

An Offbeat Bakery's Guide to Crafting Sourdough Loaves, Flatbreads, Crackers, Scones, and More

Pizza Night

Deliciously Doable Recipes for Pizza and Salad

Catching Up With Ruth Reichl

After 55 years as a renowned food journalist, the legendary Ruth Reichl shows no signs of slowing down.

Karen Bornarth: Executive Director of The Bread Bakers Guild of America

Seeking a national perspective on artisan baking and the local grain revolution, I reached out to Karen Bornarth, executive director of The Bread Bakers Guild of America (BBGA).

Morningstar Farm, Glover

As stores ran out of flour, credited to a massive spike in home baking, Seth knew he had grain silos filled with beautiful wheat.

Gingue Family Farm | Nek Grains, Waterford

Shawn and Sara Gingue needed to find the right business model that would ensure the farm’s viability and also provide them with healthy growth opportunities.

Nitty Gritty Grain Company of Vermont, Charlotte

The Kenyon family has been farming in the Champlain Valley for eight generations

JK Adams Celebrates 80 Years

Rooted in nature, based in Vermont

Grounded in Stone

New American Stone Mills revives a tradition and builds community

Why Organic Grain is Important to Vermont

“Soil is a living system, and as with our bodies, if we take care of it, the plants that grow in it thrive, are nutrient dense, and offer...

Naga Bakehouse

The art of changing something common to something invaluable.

Elmore Mountain Bread, Elmore

Blair invited me to sniff the flour, and I smelled earth, grass, and farm.

Brot Bakehouse School and Kitchen,Fairfax

Heike works to demystify sourdough baking.

Bonté Bakery, Montpelier

They work together, completing each other’s sentences, anticipating how the other was directing the story flow

Woodlawn Creamery, Pawlet

Say cheese in the Mettowee Valley

Ploughgate Creamery and Maplebrook Farm, North Bennington

Joining Forces for the Butter of All

King Arthur Baking Company: Growing Together with Vermont’s Local Grain Economy

The Bakery at King Arthur Baking Company, located in Norwich, Vermont, has long championed local farmers and grains.