Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Make a small “x” with a knife in the bottom of each tomato. Add the tomatoes to the boiling water and boil for just a couple of minutes, until the skins begin to blister. Use a slotted spoon or spider to drain them and transfer to a bowl. When cool enough to handle, peel and core the tomatoes.

Heat the olive oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the garlic cloves and press on them with a wooden spoon. Let the garlic cloves cook until they soften, begin to turn golden, and give off their aroma, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove and discard the garlic.

Take the tomatoes by the handful from the bowl and crush them between your fingers right into the pot. Cook for 10 minutes. Add the basil leaves and cook for 3 to 4 more minutes. Stir in the sugar. Add salt to taste. Done.

At this point you have a choice: Leave the tomato sauce chunky and use as is or puree it into a smooth sauce. I like to puree it. To do this, transfer the sauce to a large, fine-mesh sieve placed over a large bowl. Use a spoon to stir the sauce through, leaving the seeds behind. Or use an immersion blender to smooth out the sauce.

Tomato sauce can be kept in the refrigerator for up to 6 days or in the freezer for several months.

Note: A less messy way to peel a lot of plum tomatoes is to microwave them. With a small knife, make an “x” in the bottom of each tomato. Put them in a microwave-safe dish and microwave them on high power just until the skins shrivel. Let cool, then peel and core.