Lynn Ellen Schimoler: A Life of Food, Farms and Markets
Healthy food, agriculture and dance. These have been cornerstones in Lynn Ellen Schimoler’s life since high school. She worked in her mom’s natural food store in Lebanon, New Hampshire, spent several seasons with her hands in the soil at Long Wind Farm in Thetford and studied dance at Bennington College. Wanderlust led her to California for a few years before Schimoler returned to Vermont for good. She spent nearly 25 years managing natural food markets and co-ops, including 14 years at City Market in Burlington. Last March, Schimoler shifted from City Market to Vermont’s Agency of Agriculture, Food and Markets to oversee the Working Lands Enterprise Initiative.
What inspires you about natural food stores and co-ops?
I enjoy the way that food connects, nourishes and keeps us curious. Everyone grocery shops—all ages, shapes and sizes. It’s a great place to people-watch and interact with your community. There are some really amazing ways that food is merchandised—some of my favorite spots are Eataly in New York City and the Woodstock Farmers’ Market in Woodstock, Vermont. The behind-the-scenes work that goes into keeping a store looking beautiful is no small feat. Some of this work is revealed when the buyer commences a relationship with the farmers or producers. It continues in the careful way food is placed on the shelf and the manner in which employees interact with guests.
How have you seen the Vermont food scene evolve over the last 25 years?
My years at City Market reassured me that cooperative and independently owned retailers will commit time, energy and labor dollars to educate smaller producers about marketing, packaging and displaying their product onto the shelves. Onion River Co-op in particular is so good at juggling many producers throughout the year. Being able to grow and package beautiful product doesn’t necessarily translate to being able to market it effectively. Markets now are taking more risks to introduce new products and raise consumer awareness about all attributes. We see supermarkets trying to figure out the allure of locally grown products. On the other hand, while we’re also improving transparency in labeling—non-GMO, grass-fed, certified humane, fair trade—this can lead to confusion for eaters. We’re also seeing restaurants getting really good at showcasing Vermont farms on menus, in a smart and meaningful way.
Tell me about your position with the Working Lands Enterprise Initiative.
I work closely with the Working Lands Enterprise Initiative Board (WLEB), who support innovative entrepreneurs engaged in infrastructure improvements, research and design, or value chain and sector collaboration for their businesses. This year, WLEB awarded more than $750,000 in grants and service provider contracts to 25 recipients. Within the agricultural development division at the agency, I also provide marketing and technical assistance to agricultural and forestry businesses throughout Vermont—or connect them with resources to do so. Basically, I aim to support entrepreneurs and innovators— farmers and manufacturers, woodworkers and loggers—who are working the Vermont landscape.
What led you to shift from City Market to this new role?
The opportunity to work with producers around the state in a “big picture” capacity. The work I’m engaged in with WLEB consistently demonstrates its positive, economic impact on Vermont. Witnessing the robust participation of multiple agencies—agriculture, forest, parks and recreation, and commerce—expands my knowledge of the many businesses beyond retail that impact the economic engine of the state. As was the case when I worked in cooperative economics, collaboration and strategic partnerships are a big part of my every day.
From what you’ve seen through your work on the board of the Northeast Organic Farming Association of Vermont (NOFA-VT) and with the farmers and food producers at City Market, what distinguishes Vermont agriculture and food businesses? Any new trends on the horizon? And what concerns you?
Vermont food businesses have a knack for keeping abreast of trends and for also being uber creative. Bulk kombucha, alternative proteins like natto, or cultured butter with lavender flowers are a few examples. In Vermont, entrepreneurialism in the value-added space, and the adaptability small and medium farms possess, leads to a richly diversified local food system.
In terms of trends, I’m watching forestry and dairy farm relationships (think edible, revenue generating, eco-friendly landscapes), continued interest in transparency in labels, and ethical treatment of animals. Eaters will continue to experiment with different relationships with food (vegan, paleo, pescatarian) with a goal of long-term wellbeing for body and planet, not just weight or energy management.
What keeps me up at night? The acquisition of Whole Foods by Amazon. Climate change, food security and planning for successful transitions of farms and small-to-medium-size businesses. Online delivery of food. Convenience is important, but so is knowing how to harvest your own meal or having a sensory experience at the grocery store.
How do you find the time and energy to teach dance in the midst of your busy schedule?
High physical activity feeds my soul, and dance allows me to stay present in my body. I am fortunate to be a part-time dance lecturer at the University of Vermont, where I teach Afro-Haitian and contemporary dance. I’m excited to teach an additional repertory class this fall. The students and I will create a dance piece that they will perform next spring.
Now on to the home front—describe yourself as a cook and an eater.
I mostly learned about cooking meat and fish from my late husband, Paul Schimoler. We met when he was helping manage his brother’s restaurant, the Mist Grill, in Waterbury. Paul went to hospitality school at Cornell and loved to cook. He also had an incredible lacrosse career in college and beyond, playing for the U.S. team and eventually coaching at Saint Michael’s and Dartmouth College. As athletes, we both cared for our bodies, so eating well was important.
When I cook at home, I try to take chances and pair things kind of wildly. I recently experimented with a recipe of my mom’s, an authentic macrobiotic Japanese tofu burger with carrots, raisins and chopped onions. Let’s just say that my son, Jack, preferred his beef burger. I don’t eat beef, but I’ve gotten pretty good at cooking it for him. When my daughter, Serena, comes home, it’s clear she paid attention to her dad’s knife skill lessons—so I let her cook.
As an eater, I’m super curious and practical. Frisée over romaine, tatsoi over kale. I will look for organic but if I have to choose between organic California spinach or something from a local farmer, I’ll pick up the Vermont item. But I’m strict about certain things like protein and won’t order meat off a menu unless information about where and how it was raised and processed is available. I do use coupons and try to prepare meals ahead of time.
And as a shopper?
Natural foods markets are my favorite. When I walk into a co-op or health food store, the smells, sounds and the flavors are my preferred environment. I will visit any kind of food store on my travels—Stew Leonard’s, Whole Foods, Kitchen Kabaret in Roslyn Heights, New York, for example. And I love farmers’ markets. When in Burlington, Jack usually goes straight to Maple Wind to get a beef hot dog and then a popsicle from Adam’s Berry stand while I look for dinner.
Any go-to meals for you and Jack?
Quesadillas. Jack has made guacamole since he was young and likes diced apples as a special ingredient (Honeycrisp variety only). Cabot sour cream and Grafton cheddar for the dairy! For an easy pasta/protein dinner, we go for Bio-nature pappardelle pasta, cherry tomatoes and Parmesan, topped with castiron skillet salmon. My breakfast favorite is toasted O Bread Bakery French round, with Ploughgate butter, nutritional yeast and sliced tomatoes.
“Desert island” Vermont products?
Butterworks Farm heavy cream, Long Wind tomatoes, Pomykala asparagus, Miskell basil, Maple Wind Farm turkey, Shelburne Farms La Marquette wine, O’Bread Bakery bread, Jasper Hill Bayley Hazen Blue, Digger’s Mirth cucumbers.
Seasonal favorites for late fall?
Jericho Settler’s Farm lamb, Pete’s Greens Chioggia beets and fingerling potatoes from Golden Russet Farm. Scott Farm Baldwin apples in any dessert recipe. We eat pretty well!
Five Rapid Fire
Breakfast today?
Smoothie made with Butterworks maple yogurt and frozen blueberries from a summer “pick your own” spot.
Favorite childhood meal?
Pizza con patate—Potato pizza.
Cake, pie or cookies?
Blueberry pie.
Guilty indulgence in food or drink?
No guilt, only pleasure: Pêche Impériale Champagne, Talenti chocolate gelato.
Late-night snack?
Equal Exchange frozen dark chocolate chips.
Long Wind Farm | @longwindfarm
Bennington College | @atbennington
City Market | @citymarketcoop
Vermont’s Agency of Agriculture, Food and Markets
Working Lands Enterprise Initiative
Eataly | @eatlyboston
Woodstock Farmers’ Market | @woodstockfarmersmarket
University of Vermont | @universityofvermont
Saint Michael’s College | @saintmichaelscollege
Stew Leonard’s | @stewleonards
Whole Foods | @wholefoods
Kitchen Kabaret | @kitchen_kabaret
Maple Wind Farm | @maplewindfarm
Adam’s Berry Farm | @adamsberryfarm
Cabot Creamery | @cabotcheese
Grafton Village Cheese | @graftoncheese
O Bread Bakery | @obreadbakery
Ploughgate Creamery | @ploughgate
Butterworks Farm | @butterworksfarmvt
Pomykala Farm
Miskell Farm
Shelburne Farms | @shelburnefarms
Jasper Hill Farm | @jasperhillfarm
Digger’s Mirth Collective Farm at the Intervale Center | @diggersmirthcollectivefarm
Jericho Settlers Farm | @jerichosettlersfarm
Pete’s Greens | @petesgreens
Golden Russet Farm | @goldenrussetfarm
Scott Farm Baldwin
Talenti | @talenti
Equal Exchange | @equalexchange
