Jed Davis: A Vermonter Remains True to His Roots

With more than 20 years invested in the restaurant world, Jed Davis has done it all: from washing dishes and bussing tables at a Vermont inn to cooking and working front-of-the-house in top Manhattan venues. This Vermont native now runs the Farmhouse Group, a quartet of Burlington’s hottest eateries. Here’s how Jed traces the trajectory of his wildly successful career. 

Talk about the evolution of the Farmhouse Group.

We pursued a crazy idea to create a farm-to-table gastro pub and converted a run-down vacant McDonald’s in downtown Burlington. We found some great investors to support us, and we opened Farmhouse Tap and Grill in 2010. That quickly led to our second restaurant. We had been doing Taco Tuesdays in our beer garden, which became really popular. The Oasis Diner just up the street became available, so we decided to open El Cortijo in 2011. We opened New Year’s Eve. Then Guild Tavern came a year or so later in South Burlington, and after that, we started a catering company, Farmhouse Group Events. Pascolo Ristorante opened in 2014. We now have about 175 employees. It’s crazy—we’ve become a little company!

What appeals to you most?

It’s always fun to know on any given day or night, lots of people are having a good time in our restaurants. That’s pretty rewarding.

Do you have a favorite?

My family and I probably eat at Pascolo Ristorante the most. My daughters love the food and I love the wine list. I have lunch at Farmhouse most days. I sit at the bar, do the crossword and eat my lunch, which is usually a salad with some sort of protein on it.

How did your background in Manhattan restaurants prepare you for the Farmhouse world?

I had a unique opportunity to work for and be surrounded by really great people both in the kitchen and dining room ends. I graduated from Cornell in 1998 and, like everyone, migrated to New York. I had met Daniel Boulud on a field trip to Manhattan in my junior year, and I told him I wanted to work for him someday. During my senior year, I had accepted an offer to work at the Four Seasons in Hawaii. The next day, I got a letter from Daniel saying “Here’s your job title, salary and start date.” When I saw that offer, I said, I guess I’m working for Daniel. I worked in his kitchen for two-and-a-half years then worked for Danny Meyer at Union Square Café for a couple years. That’s where I met my wife, Noelle. She worked at Union Square for nine years. I returned to work for Daniel in the dining room end. Noelle and I moved to Vermont in 2002. I worked for NECI in Montpelier teaching and serving as director of restaurant operations. Then I linked up with Jim Reiman, who owned all the Sweet Tomatoes restaurants, and became his director of operations for about six years before opening the Farmhouse Group.

Mentors or sources of inspiration?

Louis Pattis, owner of the Brandon Inn, gave me my first job ever. I washed dishes and bussed tables all through junior and senior high school. That was my first exposure to fine dining and obviously had a significant impact. Giuseppe Pezzoti was a professor at Cornell. He gave me a lot of confidence and encouraged me to aim high when looking for employment. He’s the one who took me on the field trip to New York and set me up with Daniel Boulud. I became his teaching assistant. Alex Lee was the executive chef at Daniel for years. He embodied tough love. The kitchen was such a stressful environment, but for whatever reason, he liked me and took me under his wing.

You’ve been an ardent proponent of the local food movement.

We were one of the first places that attempted to create a menu that could be sourced locally, that wasn’t trying to be fancy, in a high-volume environment such as downtown Burlington. We never expected this kind of response, but we’ve been very blessed. We’ve been with some of our farms since day one. Jericho Settlers, Pitchfork Farm, LaPlatte River Farm, Misty Knoll Farm, Adams Farm, Vermont Heritage Grazers, Trillium Hill Farm. We wouldn’t be able to source the way we do without their consistent support. And same for all the cheese makers who are on our menu: Blue Ledge Farm, Champlain Valley Creamery, Jasper Hill Farm and Doe’s Leap.

How has the scene evolved in the past nine years?

There’s much easier access to highly consistent quality product. It’s come so far so fast. We struggled our first years to come up with enough protein to serve the public, but the farms have evolved quickly and learned to grow and produce at that scale as well as package and deliver more efficiently. They’ve developed a seamless process that meshes with our needs. We meet with some of our farmers each winter to discuss our needs and forecast quantities. That way the farms can plan accordingly and count on our business. They can bank on what we’re going to buy. It’s become a fluid relationship with mutual growth and evolution.

Challenges as a serious farm-to-table group?

It’s always a struggle to achieve a certain price point. We pay more for our ingredients and that’s reflected in the menu prices. However, the quality is indisputable, and I think our patrons understand that now.

Shifting to home life, describe yourself as a cook.

When I cook at home, I make super simple, highly accessible food for my family. My wife is gluten-free and no meat, and one daughter is pescatarian. So most of our meals are fi sh or vegetarian. A typical dinner is grilled fi sh and a whole bunch of veggies. Last night I cooked dinner for the family and made a pasta dish with some lobster, scallops and shrimp with spicy red peppers and tomato, and lots of wine.

As an eater?

When I go out to eat, the most important aspect is the beverage program—the wine list drives my food decisions. I do crave a Margherita pizza from Pascolo. Once a month I’ll have a steak at Guild Tavern. Tacos at El Cortijo are crushable; I never tire of them. When my wife and I travel, we always seek out high quality spots. For research… If I’m in a city, I’ll fi nd a good sushi joint for lunch. And for dinner, anything Italian, provided there’s also good wine.

Ideal winter weekend?

Spend it with a group of friends at our camp on Lake Dunmore. The property has been in my family for over a hundred years, and the original cabin was built in 1906. We recently rebuilt it into a year-round home. We’ll ski at Middlebury Snow Bowl and then make an awesome dinner—braised beef or slowcooked lamb, with polenta and really good wine.

Hobbies or interests beyond the restaurants?

I’m the assistant to the assistant coach of my daughter’s soccer team. I like to say I’m a golfer but I actually only get six or eight rounds a year. My family and I do love to ski.

Typical workday?

Wake up, crank out work on the laptop for an hour or so, figure out my day, come downtown, check in with the key managers at our offi ce on Main Street, meet with various people. Come to the Farmhouse for my lunch and crossword. At the end of the afternoon, hit the gym or see one of my daughter’s games. I’ve made it a goal to be home in the evenings for my family, which I can do now, thanks to my really great team who handles the restaurants each night. My life revolves around work and family.

Advice for an aspiring restaurateur?

Make sure that you are well schooled in the “business” side of the restaurant business. Find a strong location, develop a solid business plan, and secure proper financing.

Nine years in, what makes you proud?

The number of longtime employees who have been with us since we started. Philip Clayton was our opening chef in the Farmhouse and has been with us since Day One. He’s one of the partners in our group. The first employee we ever hired came through the Refugee Resettlement program. He had helped us with the demolition of the old building, and he stayed on as a prep cook. He’s still with us in the kitchen. And the repeat customers who come weekly also send a strong message that we’re doing well by them.

Five Rapid Fire

Breakfast today?

Two over-easy eggs on spouted grain bread with smear of cottage cheese.

Favorite childhood meal?

My mom would make shepherd’s pie. Dad would get us those frozen Tony’s pizzas in the yellow box which I loved.

Cake, pie or cookies?

Strawberry rhubarb or apple pie.

Guilty indulgence in food or drink?

I can’t turn away a great Margherita pizza. And Twizzlers.

Late-night snack?

I try not to eat after dinner, but if my older daughter makes a bowl of popcorn I usually dive into that.

Farmhouse Group | @farmhousegroupevents
Farmhouse Tap and Grill
El Cortijo | @cortijovt
Guild Tavern | @guildtavern
Pascolo Ristorante | @pascoloristorante
Daniel Boulud | @danielboulud
Union Square Café | @unionsquarecafe
NECI | @neciedu
Brandon Inn
Jericho Settlers | @jerichosettlersfarm
Pitchfork Farm | @pitchforkfarm
LaPlatte River Farm | @laplatteriverangus
Misty Knoll Farm
Adams Farm
Trillium Hill Farm | @trilliumhillfarm
Blue Ledge Farm | @blueledgefarm
Champlain Valley Creamery | @champlainvalleycreamery
Jasper Hill Farm | @jasperhillfarm
Doe’s Leap | @doesleapfarm
Middlebury Snow Bowl | @middsnowbowl