Editor's Letter: Issue 29, Spring 2019

Earlier this spring, I traveled to Japan to spend time with my family there. Over the course of 10 days—and not by choice—I didn’t consume any dairy. No butter, no cream; no yogurt, milk or cheese. The absence of dairy in the Japanese diet stems from a land base (approximately the size of California, yet only 18% habitable) that cannot support cows, aside from the prized Wagyu and Kobe beef. Neither did we see any sheep or goats. Once we returned home, I rectified this unintended abstinence and restocked the larder with Vermont’s finest: salty golden butter, creamy farm yogurt, a plethora of handmade cheeses. Talk about a reunion, and one I had taken for granted.

Which brings me to the present. Each issue of Edible Green Mountains begins with endless hours of research as we build our wish list of potential stories. Last fall, while orchestrating this dairy-centric issue, I was startled to learn that a number of the producers we hoped to include had recently gone out of business, and several others were barely hanging on. These had been thriving farms with high-quality products. Their demise drove reality home. Vermont has gained international acclaim for superlative dairy, thanks to excellent farmers and innovative producers. However, national trends and global politics are taking a toll on this industry.

As the stories in this issue reveal, success in today’s dairy market requires tenacity, vision, flexibility, collaboration and nerves of steel. Producers of organic milk and other value-added products Kimball Brook Farm in North Ferrisburgh and Larson Farm in Wells exemplify this spirit of entrepreneurialism and evolution. Sage Farm Goat Dairy in Stowe serves as a model of how to stay small scale and maintain a balanced lifestyle. The team at Sisters of Anarchy in Burlington shares how they built a premium ice cream business by growing their own fruits and developing radical fl avors packed with serious yum. And fun! And then we have the Queen City’s Dedalus Wine and Cheese, a destination for receptive turophiles and savvy oenophiles, who peruse shelves and coolers stocked with the region’s finest cheeses and wines.

Embracing the season, we highlight the summer wedding of Jessica Bullock and Liam Donnelly, a memorable affair that took place at a classic lakeside inn in Greensboro, crown jewel of the Northeast Kingdom. Lastly, we offer a Vermont twist on a heritage cocktail that blends creamy milk with Vermont whiskey and maple syrup, and a pair of dairy-based dressings and marinades.

So while I learned I could exist without my daily dose of dairy while traveling abroad, I am grateful that was merely a temporary situation. And now, if we want to keep Vermont dairy alive, we should eat, drink and spoon up all the local, creamy products we can. Likewise, please make a concerted eff ort to support the loyal advertisers who make this publication possible. What would Vermont be without these dedicated producers and patrons?

Here’s to dairy, and vitamin D!

Maria Buteux Reade | Managing Editor