Restaurant Revival

This is a story about restaurants—and their people—that made it through the pandemic. No one came out unscathed; everyone’s business was forced to evolve. However, those who endured have emerged stronger, healthier, and confident they can handle almost anything.

As long as they can find employees.

The past three years have been indescribably challenging for all of us, but make no mistake: Restaurant People. Love. Their. Businesses. They have put their lives on the line to keep the line running. Sourcing funding, creating new systems, developing game plans while the rules of the game were constantly in flux. They planned, they dreamed, they worried, they hoped. And they acted. Slowly, incrementally, drip by drip during the months as the governor opened the spigot. If you open it, they will come. And as the past two summers showed, people came. In tidal waves, ready to make up for lost good times.

I spoke with seven restaurant owners and managers and asked them to reflect on how the pandemic impacted their businesses and their lives. After each person pushed through the initial amnesia (or as Aaron Josinsky, chefowner of Misery Loves Co. and Onion City Chicken & Oysters, said, “It’s so weird; I feel like I blanked out much of the last couple of years.”), the memories poured forth like battle tales but evolved into stories of growth, transformation, and hope.

Some common themes? Shutting down and letting staff go in March 2020 was the hardest thing ever. People were grateful for the time Covid provided—or forced—for rethinking and planning. Time to create new approaches and streamlined systems, to reassess priorities and to focus on values.

The number one goal? Keep staff healthy and safe. Peter Campbell of The Crooked Ram puts it best: “The staff is our first customer.” That renewed awareness has resulted in improved communication, greater transparency about policies and pay scales, and increased efforts to create balanced and flexible schedules. Managers expressed sincere appreciation for staff who rose to the occasion as the pandemic dragged on. They spoke of a shared sense of responsibility while shouldering the load together.

Owners conveyed gratitude for loyal customers who have supported restaurants throughout the past three years of awkwardness, and frustration with customers who express anger, even hostility, at reduced or changed hours, seating, and menus. Unless you’ve worked in a restaurant, it’s impossible to truly grasp the intricacies and juggling act required to run one. Especially during a pandemic.

The biggest concern? Persistent staff shortages and lack of affordable housing for employees. These factors impact every business owner, and long-term solutions—not stop-gap measures—need to evolve. Sooner rather than later.

Restaurant owners are risk takers and optimists, committed to finding ways to succeed and determined not to fail or let staff and community down. As Pete Christy, general manager of Mulligan’s Stratton, says, “Persistence pays. We’re still here, providing jobs and helping the community.”

Read on to hear how these stalwarts describe their journey of the last few years.