Venetian Ginger Ale: Good Then, Even Better Now
Popping the top on this crisp, bubbly, nonalcoholic beverage and taking one sip of Venetian Ginger Ale evokes nostalgic memories of years gone by. Michael C. Dorn opened M. & F.C. Dorn Bottling in 1917, and great-great-grandson Justin Bunnell reclaimed his ancestor’s famous Venetian Ginger Ale a century later. Restoring its glory after a 32-year hiatus and returning to its original Burlington building, The Soda Plant, Justin has added a new twist to this long-forgotten beverage. Refreshing, spicy, and infused with organic Peruvian ginger juice, he makes it the all-natural, Vermont way.
Growing up in a close-knit family, Justin spent considerable time in his grandparents’ home where he loved looking at family photos. With generations of a family who loved sharing food and entertaining, there were always delicious meals and movies. “Th e family was always trying to outdo each other’s food creations, and it was lively and fun for me as a kid to hear them banter away,” recalls Justin. During Sunday rituals of egg-and-bacon breakfasts at Granny’s, he was captivated by one distinct photo that hung in the breakfast nook. Did the Dorn clan—wearing their everyday gray suits beneath a stern, conservative veneer—have the semblance of gangsters and perhaps bootleggers?
No one talked about his family outlaws in suits back then. But the story of these alleged bootleggers who spirited cases of whiskey out of Canada disguised with empty crates of Venetian Ginger Ale on top remained part of the family lore. Amidst those early, pre-Depression days in Vermont, this vibrant family business added spice to people’s lives by supplying bottles donned with elegant gold-foiled tops in an era that was void of champagne. Sipping Venetian Ginger Ale offered a means of celebration.
Around 2015, Justin started asking questions of his grandmother and began piecing together some of the family history. Captivated by the riveting stories that began to unfold about his “outlaws” in suits, he visited his grandfather’s basement where he uncovered a trove of family photos and assorted memorabilia.
In 2017, Justin updated the ginger ale recipe, and after more than 200 batches of attempts, launched his new product. Vermont’s booming beverage scene offers abundant breweries and distilleries, yet few can claim quite the backstory of this popular revival.
It’s worth a visit to his charming store tucked in the corner of Burlington’s hip Pine Street Soda Plant that houses other like-minded creative entrepreneurs and bustles with activity. Old family photos and memorabilia grace the walls and offer a nostalgic glimmer of the early days.
Assorted Venetian bottles collected during the years sit in a glass case. Here you can purchase the famous Venetian Ginger Ale along with several other refreshing craft nonalcoholic beverages. A film set takes up part of the shop’s space, adding more intrigue to wonder what Justin will create next. He credits good friend and cinematographer Michael Fisher in his endeavors, and his wife Anna. The couple met working at the local cinema.
Justin’s creative spirit, coupled with his talent in film and his determination to restore this long-forgotten beverage made the classic way, has propelled new aspirations. His early years as a novice filmmaker with mentor and film guru David Giancola at Edgewood Studios in Rutland have shaped part of his plan. Justin’s future vision is tantalizing as he describes a family-friendly gathering spot for watching movies on a vintage movie set, while sipping craft soda floats and cocktails and noshing on hipster hotdogs and popcorn. Music, karaoke nights, and board games will offer plenty of additional entertainment for young and old alike.
What keeps this affable, talented young man so inspired?
It all boils down to entertainment at its finest and dedication to keeping old traditions alive and well. The spirit of community drives this clever man, part of the family heritage that inspired him to dream and to re-create that love of food, refreshing beverages, and honest good ole Vermont fun, in the original building where it all began—The Soda Plant.
